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23 April 2009 @ 04:52 pm
more research on BASS (not the fish)  


So I made sure that all the options on my receiver was giving all the bass to the front speakers and ran some tests, and from what I could tell the amp would just stop driving the bass at about 100hz so that there's this moment of chest thumping bass, and then the note gets lower and it just, poof, gets quiet. Greg did some research and found out this is a flaw in our recevier, which lends weight that even a bad subwoofer might help. Though running the tests brought back fond memories of those speakers unscreen saving computers and blowing grocery bags around. We'd love a receiver that does component and have for a while, but I'm not sure the information on how well a receiver would drive my speakers is out there. Modern systems are all about the tiny little speakers and the subwoofer working together, not about older speakers that could kick most subwoofer's asses. I'm also worried that since they're relying on a powered subwoofer they just don't amp the bass signals below a certain frequency, expecting the subwoofer to take that extra burden.

So, that's my current thoughts.

Oh, I even thought about mounting a larger woofer under the floor, but I don't think that will work either.
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Nurghringrose on April 23rd, 2009 09:05 pm (UTC)
Probably not relevant, but we have a bunch of old speakers we're trying to get rid of. None of 'em are subwoofers, though.
David Phillipsdphilli1 on April 23rd, 2009 09:13 pm (UTC)
If you really want to test stuff, I've got an SPL meter (sound pressure meter) you can use.
Binkbinkbink on April 23rd, 2009 11:27 pm (UTC)
Take care. If your receiver isn't making the signal, or your computer sound card doesn't have the low frequency output, no amount of subwoofer (powered or not) will help with the chest thumping awesomeness you desire.
Binkbinkbink on April 23rd, 2009 11:31 pm (UTC)
Floor
Dad mounted a woofer through the wall from the basement, so that it had an infinite baffle. Yes it made a difference though perhaps you were too young then to remember. But that was the old days before modern fluid dynamics-designed enclosures.

Stuff seems to settle on the floor mounts. They suck cat hair out of the air, and assemble cookies from the crumbs they pull in, so put it somewhere you can get access to clean it when the buildup becomes audible.
Erikavacon on April 24th, 2009 02:49 am (UTC)
I suspect that it depends on the receiver... Perhaps see if you can find a good used receiver on eBay that is more targetted at strong audio performance?

Make sure your front speakers are configured as "large" in the receiver menu. If they're configured as "small", you'll get that fall-off around 100 Hz (which means you'll also be missing out on some voices and instruments).

I have a Yamaha RX-V2500 (which I bought on eBay years ago). They do component (but not HDMI)
and should be able to drive your front speakers just fine. Are your front speakers 4 ohm or 6 ohm or 8 ohm? That can also make a difference...

There are a few test-tones CDs available for free download which can help, although it sounds like you've already done some of that.
Someone I am is waiting for my courageforgotten_aria on April 24th, 2009 03:38 am (UTC)
I worked a lot today on making sure the speaker settings were all sending as much bass to the front speakers as I could, but the online reviews agree with me that this is a problem with my amp.

I'm not sure what the resistance of my speakers are. Can I just put a ohm meter on it to check?
Erikavacon on April 24th, 2009 12:00 pm (UTC)
That's very annoying that the receiver does that! Which receiver do you have?

Sadly, it is impedance rather than resistance. (I'm actually not sure how to measure it...
The speakers should have a rating value on them?)

Someone I am is waiting for my courageforgotten_aria on April 24th, 2009 04:08 pm (UTC)
Right, it's a coil, of course it's impedience. Reading the lable is cheatting! (8 ohm)

We have a pioneer from about 7 years ago. SVX-D08

Sadly looking at modern, low end amps (below $600,) you can't get s-video and 4 video inputs and half decent review. The field of options is so small, I'm kind of wondering it people are using something other than recievers to do their AV switching now.
David Phillipsdphilli1 on April 24th, 2009 06:35 pm (UTC)
I think most purists don't use receivers to do the switching. I think they use dedicated audio/video hardware and then run it through a separate switch box.
Binkbinkbink on April 24th, 2009 10:35 pm (UTC)
If the signal is there, then all you need is a powered woofer. It will take the lowe level signal and boost it nicely. You aren't looking for pure tones, so you are unlikely to notice any little imperfections.

Sometimes a receiver like that has a Bass Out, too, which isn't throttled to protect little speakers.
Erikavacon on April 24th, 2009 10:36 pm (UTC)
I kind-of like using my TV to do the video switching and use my receiver to do audio switching
and then have a universal remote to coordinate. Some of the new HD audio formats are trying
to force everything to go into the receiver via HDMI for copy protection. Some of the receivers
do some upscaling which can help with an HD display and SD inputs. I guess that will require
a TV with an HDMI input, though. :-/

Things also seem to be moving in the direction of HDMI, so it does
look like S-VIDEO and multiple component inputs are vanishing.
Perhaps something like the Onkyo TX-SR606? (The Onkyos seem "ok"
although they apparently run a little hot. They also seem to have a mix
of HDMI, component, and S-Video inputs.) Getting a model that is being replaced
may also help bring the price down.
Binkbinkbink on April 24th, 2009 10:32 pm (UTC)
Ohmmeter
No you can't. You will get something approaching a short with a DC meter.

The rating is a dynamic impedance that the magnets, air, cone mass, etc. create when an AC signal is applied according to a complex algorithm.

They should say on the outside. Most systems of your sort have 8 ohm speakers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_characteristics_of_a_dynamic_loudspeaker then drop down to Nominal Impedance.